Dry clean only: can I wash it at home?

Often, yes, but not always. First check what the tag really says. A circle with a letter (P, F) only means a dry cleaner can clean it. It is only truly “dry clean only” when the wash tub is crossed out or the tag says “dry clean only” in words.

Usually safe to hand wash at home

• Polyester, nylon, acrylic (unlined): cold hand wash or Delicates in a mesh bag.
• Cashmere and merino knits: cold hand wash with wool detergent, no wringing, dry flat.
• Silk (plain, washable dyes): cold hand wash with a gentle detergent, a few minutes only. Test an inside seam with a damp white cloth first; if colour comes off, do not wash.
• Cotton and linen (unstructured): cold, gentle.

Leave these to the dry cleaner

• Tailored jackets, blazers and coats: interfacing and shoulder pads warp when wet.
• Rayon / viscose and acetate: they can shrink a lot and lose their shape in water.
• Leather, suede, fur, velvet, taffeta and anything with beading or glue.
• Pleated items, and anything with a lining made of a different fabric than the outside.
• Silk with bright or dark colours that bleed in the damp-cloth test.

How to hand wash a “dry clean” item safely

1. Fill a clean basin with cold water and a teaspoon of gentle or wool detergent.
2. Submerge, press gently for 2–3 minutes. Do not rub or twist.
3. Rinse in cold water the same way.
4. Press the water out, roll the item in a dry towel, then lay it flat or hang it on a padded hanger out of the sun.

Washing something the tag says not to wash is at your own risk: the brand will not replace it. When it is expensive or sentimental, a dry cleaner is cheap insurance.